Monday, May 21, 2012

Rainy Monday

Over the last week rain has been consistently forecast for today, so it was not a surprise.  We slept later, had a relaxed breakfast, and headed out about 10:30, taking a Vaporetto from Orto to the train station.  Jeannie wanted to find a shop she remembered from our last trip.

Along the way we visited San Rocco Church and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, a lay organization associated with the church.  The scuole were especially important social and insurance organizations in late Medieval and Renaissance Venice. They were similar to the Modern Woodmen, but with much more ambitious architectural visions.  This is the second floor "upper room" of the San Rocco scuola.


San Rocco is especially associated with the painter Tintoretto, a member of the "lodge" who was commissioned to execute several colossal works for the first and second floors.  Below are two examples.  The figures represented are more than life-size, even double life size.

The Last Supper


Satan Tempting Jesus

Jeannie and I had fun recognizing the Bible stories.  Neither one of us could recognize every one, but together we recognized all but one: The Raising of Lazarus (below).


Continuing on yesterday's art appreciation theme, Tintoretto certainly asks questions and his answers are not simple or easy, but - especially when the entire collection is engaged side-by-side - there is a strong suggestion of courage, kindness, relationships, strength and self-sacrifice as a big part of the answer.

After nearly two hours with Tintoretto and friends we continued our search for the shop.  We actually found a couple of Jeannie's favorite places in our "old neighborhood" of Santa Croce between the train station and the Rialto.  Mostly it was just a light rain.  But there were a couple of sustained downpours that pushed us into a shop or under an awning.  



While we were in the area, we had a late lunch - about 2:30 - at Captain Uncino's a restaurant on the Campo near the apartment where we stayed five years ago.  We had never eaten there, but a colleague of Jeannie's later stayed at the same apartment and recommended the restaurant.  Jeannie had a fantastic Spaghetti Carbonara, I had fried seafood and we shared some grilled vegetables.

After lunch more shopping around the Rialto and a visit to the Santa Maria dei Miracoli Church.  Laura and I had visited here and I wanted to show Jeannie.  

The rain cleared between 6 and 6:30 PM.  We shared some gelatto without needing to juggle an umbrella as well.  Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and we head for Florence.


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